it is COLD and RAINY here in Salzburg. so we are on the internet. 3 euro for unlimited access. yay.
Siena - During the bus ride we saw lots of Italian Tuscan countryside. It was pretty neat, sometimes we'd see random medieval monasteries/castles on the hills. We arrived there in the evening and Laura's friend from the Siena program was gracious enough to let us stay at her apartment. It was pretty nice! On the outside all you see are old looking buildings all cramped together (and apparently they had made a contract to not drag their luggage on the steps up the building cuz the steps were from the 1200s), but inside it's a pretty spacious apartment space. I've learned that in Italy, people don't really believe in drying machines. It gets so hot that people just hang clothes and stuff outside the windows. I wonder what they do in the wintertime when it gets all cold.
So we dropped off our stuff and got dinner. Sarah and i split a calzone and laura had chinese food. (this begins our chinese food trend in random cities). We also got granitas and chilled on the campo (nice atmosphere). The campo is the main courtyard of the city, very large and expansive. I didn't know it was on the cover of my Rough Guide book until i showed it to laura and she's all, "it's Siena! It's the campo!" and i was all, cool. From the book's picture i thought the campo was like, grass or something, but it's all brick. There were a good number of people out that night, chilling, having a drink, etc. Laura told us about her experience there, but mainly she told stories of The Palio, the thing Siena is known for. Crazy ass stories.
Some highlights: 10 of the 17 contradas (neighborhoods) participate in The Palio, which is a horse race around the outer ring of the campo. Some contradas have allies, most have one enemy (or more), and they all have different symbols and scarves. Each participating contrada is assigned a horse and a jockey, and once that is done, that's where all the "under the table" stuff happens....deals between contradas or between contradas and jockeys to help/hurt allies or enemies' jockeys or horses before or during the actual horse race.
During the actual race, the jockeys ride bareback around the campo, the track is filled with dirt, and if it rains, the dirt is removed and replaced with new dirt and packed especially for the race. People fill the inner portion of the campo and others pay for seats in the areas over the track. how people in the middle of the campo see the race is beyond me, but i guess they go for the experience of the craziness. We stayed there pretty late into the night, and sarah decided to lay on her back cuz she wasn't feeling well, and some random guy went up to her and started talking to her in italian (beginning another trend of weird guys hitting on us). So we couldn't understand what he was saying, but laura said something to the effect that he was telling her it was a beautiful night, she shouldn't be sleeping. or something like that.
So that night we were staying at laura's friend's place, and i was on the couch in the room facing the street. laura was on the floor and we could hear all the scooters and taxis and cars whiz by. it's worse than at berkeley. i was sooo tired i conked out and fell asleep but laura apparently couldn't handle the noise and slept in the room sarah was in.
The next day we moved our stuff to the city hostel, which turned out to be a 10 min bus ride from the bus station and way out of the city walls. the stairs leading up to our room were weird, like one would lead up to one floor and another one would lead up to the same floor but ending at a differnet location. so i took one staircase and laura and sarah took another. apparently there was a really really cute guy at the reception and the other two could see him but i didn't. he had a sexy accent too. we had an ordeal opening the door to our room, and, of course, when we asked the reception guy to help us he just puts the key in and bam! the door opens. geez.
so at the bus stop, waiting for the bus, i got my chance to see the cute guy. yeah, he was hot. we couldn't figure out what language he was speaking to his friend...but he was tall, blue eyes, blond hair, sexy european accent. (**melt**)
so we went to the campo again and got tickets to climb the Torre di Mangia. We had some time before doing it, so we walked around another area of town (through the dolphin contrada) and took pictures of the tuscan countryside, walked through the botanical gardens. it was really really hot. so we then climbed the tower. it was an ordeal. but we made it to the top, and had awesome views of the city and countryside.
Afterwards we visited the Museum of Maria della Scalla because a freak thunderstorm came through. What better way to wait out the storm than by going through a museum? It was an interesting place....like the 1st floor is arty stuff, tne floor below is a chapel, kinda creepy, and then the floor below that is an archaeological museum, bones and everything. the creepiest thing in the place was this skull with writing on it that reads, "as you are i once was, as i am you will be." in italian, of course, but laura gave us the translation. isn't that creepy?!?!?!
after the museum (and freak thunderstorm), we visited the city's Duomo, which had an admission fee as of a few days ago because they just opened up the floor mosaics (they board them up during tourist season. lucky us, kinda). the interior's pretty cool, the mosaics that they did open were very nice to look at, and there are busts of the popes looking down at you (that was kinda creepy)
We walked around after that, got groceries and had snacks on the campo. sarah and i accidentally blew off this one austrailian guy on the campo cuz he asked how much we paid for our babybel cheese and we didn't offer any to him cuz we're dense like that. first he asked us how much the cheese was. (we told him). then he asked how many cheese were in each pack. we told him. (there was about 5 per bag). we didn't get the subtlety. later on we overheard him saying somethign about stupid americans and still didn't get the hint until laura called us on it.
That night we ate at an italian restaurant near laura's contrada, nicchio (the shell), and i had tortellini with a cream truffle sauce. it was salty. we had chianti (in chianti, pretty cool), but it was kinda strong and i couldn't finish my glasses or my food. i felt bad cuz i know italians would take offense if i dind't finish my plate. but if i'd taken another bite i felt i would've thrown it all up, which would've been a greater offense. afterwards we had more granitas and gelato on the campo, and laura expressed her sentiments on how much she will miss Siena after spending the summer here. And every time we chilled on the campo, there was always the requisite group of children playing around. It was pretty fun. We also saw a parade from the Caterpillar contrada because they won the most recent Palio.
So early the next morning we took a bus to florence. We had a hostel reserved, but it was out of the way so we tried looking for a closer one (we didn't have to worry about losing a deposit or anything for the previous hostel). We walked towards the area where Sarah stayed the last time she was here, but the hotel she stayed at was offering us to stay for a price higher than what we wanted. Fortunately, the hotel one floor below that one offered us a better price, so we took it. The guy that ran the hostel, Gabriel, was very welcoming and said he'd be our "Florentine dad" and gave us a recommendation for a restaurant to eat dinner. We had a nice big room, but it was on a busy street so we'd hear the scooters whiz by all the time.
Sarah and I went off by ourselves cuz laura had seen most of Florence already, and she had train ticket business to take care of. So, we went to the Barghello and the Uffizi and got overwhelmed by all the art. The Barghello had Donatello (i think)'s bronze sculpture of David, who was the first nude statue. They also had some Michaelangelos and a cool sculpture of Mercury that i particularly liked. The Uffizi, is, of course, one of the most famous museums in the world, with what Laura says is the highest number of famous works per square foot. I believe her, look one way there's a famous painting, and across the room is another. Botticelli's always a favorite, but i was most impressed by Gentileschi's Judith slaying Holofermes painting. i'd only seen a picture of it in Miss Conklin's classes and i knew it was gruesome, but i didn't know how big it was (and how vivid the blood is). Odd thing is, it's like in a corner in a section of the museum that's not really part of the main route...you'd have to go further past the exit to see it. And we thought we'd missed it cuz a number of rooms were not open for some reason.
Afterwards we tried to get a cheap lunch but it didn't happen. We had ordered sodas because it was hot and we were thirsty, but we didn't expect our little glasses of soda to cost 4 freakin euro!!! We were tempted to take the glasses as revenge but didn't because they could see us pretty easily. Ashamed of our expensive meal, we met up with laura at Santa Croce and looked at the graves of many famous italians - galileo, dante, machiavelli, etc. We separated from laura again after that, i forget why...i think she was tired and we were going to places she'd been to already. So Sarah and i walked towards the Academia and got caught in a freak thunderstorm, fortunately i had my umbrella with me but it was POURING. At the Academia we saw Michelangelo's David, and we noticed that there wasn't much security preventing people from taking pictures, so we took pictures of him illegally. of his front and backside. we thought it our revenge for getting ripped off at lunch.
We tried to go to the San Lorenzo marketplace before dinner to get some shopping done, but most of the vendors were packing up for the day. So we had dinner at this restaurant recommended by Gabriel - good stuff. I think it's name was La Scala, or La Spada, something like that. i had risotto and sarah had good gnocchi. since we told them gabriel recommended the restuaurant to us they gave us a free dessert of biscotti and rum shots. too strong! you have to dip the biscotti into the rum and then eat it, but the rum was sooo strong, it would burn my tongue/mouth every time i took a bite. i got an excellent picture of sarah looking skeptically at the dessert =)
shopped in the morning. went crazy. bought shoes and bracelets and scarves. wanted to buy a bag but refrained.
We took the train to venice, using our Eurail passes for the first time. They didn' have any more spaces in 2nd class, so we ended up paying a small supplement to take first class. it was nice. the train didn't take too long, so we arrived in venice with plenty of time to explore. It's such a beautiful looking city, canals and all. The architecture of the buildings is really interesting, sarah told me it's a mix of everything cuz they had influences from all over the world. we took the vaporetto (water bus) along the grand canal on our way to San Marco, took some video clips and pictures. It was a beautiful day as well, partly cloudy but nice and warm....very picturesque.
When we got to San Marco, we walked around the plaza before heading in. There are thousands, THOUSANDS of pidgeons there. It's so disgusting. (Well, you know me, i hate little things in mass proportions). People were feeding them and the birds were landing on their hands and heads! EEEWW. Who knows where those pidgeons have been! I got a pretty good picture of a pidgeon just landing on a little girl's head.
I was very impressed by San Marco. Venice had sooo much money to burn they really went all out on the ceiling. It's primarily made of gold, AND it's mosaic. The mosaics are so well done they look like frescoes, paintings, but nope. It's mosaic. Even though you're not supposed to take pictures, i took a few. I'm good though, i didn't take it with a flash.
Afterwards we headed towards another vaporetto to take us to Murano. we liked walking around especially where there were no tourists. We got there around 5 or so, so the glassblowing factories had closed, but the shops were still open. So we shopped for about 2 hours, looking at the different pieces of jewelry, figurines, etc, all made of glass. It's quite pretty. I got a calligraphy pen and some jewelry, but i decided not to get too much as gifts because i realized that i think the bracelets janet got us cambridge girls may have been from Murano when she went to italy. Laura and Sarah really liked it too.
Also around Venice some shops had lots of handmade masks for sale, because Carnevale is held there. The masks are SOOOOOOOOOOOOO PRETTY. THAT's the kind of mask that i like, very classic. i wanted to buy one, but of course they were in the "break and die" category. But i did take a picture of one store window.
Walking around for a place to eat, we tried to eat at this kosher jewish restaurant, but it was all full because, we realized when we got there, that it was Shabbat. The place was packed with people and they were singing every once in a while. So we walked around some more and found this really nice chinese restaurant across the canal from the jewish restaurant. The food was good, it was cheap, and we had deep fried gelato for dessert. This couple at the table next to us struck up a conversation with us. They were from austraila and had been traveling around venice and italy for a few days.
That night we took an overnight train to munich, which was just a stopover on our way to Salzburg. Laura was disappointed we didn't get a couchette cabin and experience "real ghetto backpacking," even though we had nice beds in a compartment all to ourselves. It was freakin hot though, and i got the short end of the stick, having the top bed. It was so hot we decided to all just sleep in our underwear. Somehow we all fell asleep but when we awoke, it was alot cooler. We weren't in italy anymore! However, it was a lot cooler. It was raining. In Germany, and in Austria. When we got to Munich we wanted to get a postcard or something, but we just hung out at our platform eating breakfast. I had smoked salmon and cheese sandwiches, which wasn't so bad. Well i had to finish the salmon off anyway cuz we weren't around any refridgerators.
When we got to Salzburg, we had to take a local train to find our hostel, just one stop from the station, but then we had to walk up a hill to find the hostel, Haus Christine. It was by far the best hostel we stayed at. It was at this family's house, which i wouldn't mind to have when i was older (3 floors, nice big open rooms, wood floors) and it had the most awesome view of the hills. And the hills were green (well, yeah, it's been rainy). It was so beautiful, i wanted to do a Julie Andrews and do the whole "the hills are alive" bit. but the grass was muddy and i hate muddy grass. (BTW, The Sound of Music was filmed here. They have those "sound of music" tours here) You can also do Canyoning around here (along with snowboarding and skiing in the winter, oooh, i would like to do that!), but the rain had dampened our moods.
We had a room on the top floor with this one girl, Claire, from Manchester, England. She was staying in Austria for the year teaching English, i think. She had just arrived from England (an 8 hour car ride to london and a short flight from Heathrow, crazy!) so we left her to recover and sleep.
salzburg. cold and rainy. went to mozart“s birthplace and went here to stay away from the rain.
dinner - bratwursts. hee. and then we went to a cafe and had the best apple strudel ever.
Siena - During the bus ride we saw lots of Italian Tuscan countryside. It was pretty neat, sometimes we'd see random medieval monasteries/castles on the hills. We arrived there in the evening and Laura's friend from the Siena program was gracious enough to let us stay at her apartment. It was pretty nice! On the outside all you see are old looking buildings all cramped together (and apparently they had made a contract to not drag their luggage on the steps up the building cuz the steps were from the 1200s), but inside it's a pretty spacious apartment space. I've learned that in Italy, people don't really believe in drying machines. It gets so hot that people just hang clothes and stuff outside the windows. I wonder what they do in the wintertime when it gets all cold.
So we dropped off our stuff and got dinner. Sarah and i split a calzone and laura had chinese food. (this begins our chinese food trend in random cities). We also got granitas and chilled on the campo (nice atmosphere). The campo is the main courtyard of the city, very large and expansive. I didn't know it was on the cover of my Rough Guide book until i showed it to laura and she's all, "it's Siena! It's the campo!" and i was all, cool. From the book's picture i thought the campo was like, grass or something, but it's all brick. There were a good number of people out that night, chilling, having a drink, etc. Laura told us about her experience there, but mainly she told stories of The Palio, the thing Siena is known for. Crazy ass stories.
Some highlights: 10 of the 17 contradas (neighborhoods) participate in The Palio, which is a horse race around the outer ring of the campo. Some contradas have allies, most have one enemy (or more), and they all have different symbols and scarves. Each participating contrada is assigned a horse and a jockey, and once that is done, that's where all the "under the table" stuff happens....deals between contradas or between contradas and jockeys to help/hurt allies or enemies' jockeys or horses before or during the actual horse race.
During the actual race, the jockeys ride bareback around the campo, the track is filled with dirt, and if it rains, the dirt is removed and replaced with new dirt and packed especially for the race. People fill the inner portion of the campo and others pay for seats in the areas over the track. how people in the middle of the campo see the race is beyond me, but i guess they go for the experience of the craziness. We stayed there pretty late into the night, and sarah decided to lay on her back cuz she wasn't feeling well, and some random guy went up to her and started talking to her in italian (beginning another trend of weird guys hitting on us). So we couldn't understand what he was saying, but laura said something to the effect that he was telling her it was a beautiful night, she shouldn't be sleeping. or something like that.
So that night we were staying at laura's friend's place, and i was on the couch in the room facing the street. laura was on the floor and we could hear all the scooters and taxis and cars whiz by. it's worse than at berkeley. i was sooo tired i conked out and fell asleep but laura apparently couldn't handle the noise and slept in the room sarah was in.
The next day we moved our stuff to the city hostel, which turned out to be a 10 min bus ride from the bus station and way out of the city walls. the stairs leading up to our room were weird, like one would lead up to one floor and another one would lead up to the same floor but ending at a differnet location. so i took one staircase and laura and sarah took another. apparently there was a really really cute guy at the reception and the other two could see him but i didn't. he had a sexy accent too. we had an ordeal opening the door to our room, and, of course, when we asked the reception guy to help us he just puts the key in and bam! the door opens. geez.
so at the bus stop, waiting for the bus, i got my chance to see the cute guy. yeah, he was hot. we couldn't figure out what language he was speaking to his friend...but he was tall, blue eyes, blond hair, sexy european accent. (**melt**)
so we went to the campo again and got tickets to climb the Torre di Mangia. We had some time before doing it, so we walked around another area of town (through the dolphin contrada) and took pictures of the tuscan countryside, walked through the botanical gardens. it was really really hot. so we then climbed the tower. it was an ordeal. but we made it to the top, and had awesome views of the city and countryside.
Afterwards we visited the Museum of Maria della Scalla because a freak thunderstorm came through. What better way to wait out the storm than by going through a museum? It was an interesting place....like the 1st floor is arty stuff, tne floor below is a chapel, kinda creepy, and then the floor below that is an archaeological museum, bones and everything. the creepiest thing in the place was this skull with writing on it that reads, "as you are i once was, as i am you will be." in italian, of course, but laura gave us the translation. isn't that creepy?!?!?!
after the museum (and freak thunderstorm), we visited the city's Duomo, which had an admission fee as of a few days ago because they just opened up the floor mosaics (they board them up during tourist season. lucky us, kinda). the interior's pretty cool, the mosaics that they did open were very nice to look at, and there are busts of the popes looking down at you (that was kinda creepy)
We walked around after that, got groceries and had snacks on the campo. sarah and i accidentally blew off this one austrailian guy on the campo cuz he asked how much we paid for our babybel cheese and we didn't offer any to him cuz we're dense like that. first he asked us how much the cheese was. (we told him). then he asked how many cheese were in each pack. we told him. (there was about 5 per bag). we didn't get the subtlety. later on we overheard him saying somethign about stupid americans and still didn't get the hint until laura called us on it.
That night we ate at an italian restaurant near laura's contrada, nicchio (the shell), and i had tortellini with a cream truffle sauce. it was salty. we had chianti (in chianti, pretty cool), but it was kinda strong and i couldn't finish my glasses or my food. i felt bad cuz i know italians would take offense if i dind't finish my plate. but if i'd taken another bite i felt i would've thrown it all up, which would've been a greater offense. afterwards we had more granitas and gelato on the campo, and laura expressed her sentiments on how much she will miss Siena after spending the summer here. And every time we chilled on the campo, there was always the requisite group of children playing around. It was pretty fun. We also saw a parade from the Caterpillar contrada because they won the most recent Palio.
So early the next morning we took a bus to florence. We had a hostel reserved, but it was out of the way so we tried looking for a closer one (we didn't have to worry about losing a deposit or anything for the previous hostel). We walked towards the area where Sarah stayed the last time she was here, but the hotel she stayed at was offering us to stay for a price higher than what we wanted. Fortunately, the hotel one floor below that one offered us a better price, so we took it. The guy that ran the hostel, Gabriel, was very welcoming and said he'd be our "Florentine dad" and gave us a recommendation for a restaurant to eat dinner. We had a nice big room, but it was on a busy street so we'd hear the scooters whiz by all the time.
Sarah and I went off by ourselves cuz laura had seen most of Florence already, and she had train ticket business to take care of. So, we went to the Barghello and the Uffizi and got overwhelmed by all the art. The Barghello had Donatello (i think)'s bronze sculpture of David, who was the first nude statue. They also had some Michaelangelos and a cool sculpture of Mercury that i particularly liked. The Uffizi, is, of course, one of the most famous museums in the world, with what Laura says is the highest number of famous works per square foot. I believe her, look one way there's a famous painting, and across the room is another. Botticelli's always a favorite, but i was most impressed by Gentileschi's Judith slaying Holofermes painting. i'd only seen a picture of it in Miss Conklin's classes and i knew it was gruesome, but i didn't know how big it was (and how vivid the blood is). Odd thing is, it's like in a corner in a section of the museum that's not really part of the main route...you'd have to go further past the exit to see it. And we thought we'd missed it cuz a number of rooms were not open for some reason.
Afterwards we tried to get a cheap lunch but it didn't happen. We had ordered sodas because it was hot and we were thirsty, but we didn't expect our little glasses of soda to cost 4 freakin euro!!! We were tempted to take the glasses as revenge but didn't because they could see us pretty easily. Ashamed of our expensive meal, we met up with laura at Santa Croce and looked at the graves of many famous italians - galileo, dante, machiavelli, etc. We separated from laura again after that, i forget why...i think she was tired and we were going to places she'd been to already. So Sarah and i walked towards the Academia and got caught in a freak thunderstorm, fortunately i had my umbrella with me but it was POURING. At the Academia we saw Michelangelo's David, and we noticed that there wasn't much security preventing people from taking pictures, so we took pictures of him illegally. of his front and backside. we thought it our revenge for getting ripped off at lunch.
We tried to go to the San Lorenzo marketplace before dinner to get some shopping done, but most of the vendors were packing up for the day. So we had dinner at this restaurant recommended by Gabriel - good stuff. I think it's name was La Scala, or La Spada, something like that. i had risotto and sarah had good gnocchi. since we told them gabriel recommended the restuaurant to us they gave us a free dessert of biscotti and rum shots. too strong! you have to dip the biscotti into the rum and then eat it, but the rum was sooo strong, it would burn my tongue/mouth every time i took a bite. i got an excellent picture of sarah looking skeptically at the dessert =)
shopped in the morning. went crazy. bought shoes and bracelets and scarves. wanted to buy a bag but refrained.
We took the train to venice, using our Eurail passes for the first time. They didn' have any more spaces in 2nd class, so we ended up paying a small supplement to take first class. it was nice. the train didn't take too long, so we arrived in venice with plenty of time to explore. It's such a beautiful looking city, canals and all. The architecture of the buildings is really interesting, sarah told me it's a mix of everything cuz they had influences from all over the world. we took the vaporetto (water bus) along the grand canal on our way to San Marco, took some video clips and pictures. It was a beautiful day as well, partly cloudy but nice and warm....very picturesque.
When we got to San Marco, we walked around the plaza before heading in. There are thousands, THOUSANDS of pidgeons there. It's so disgusting. (Well, you know me, i hate little things in mass proportions). People were feeding them and the birds were landing on their hands and heads! EEEWW. Who knows where those pidgeons have been! I got a pretty good picture of a pidgeon just landing on a little girl's head.
I was very impressed by San Marco. Venice had sooo much money to burn they really went all out on the ceiling. It's primarily made of gold, AND it's mosaic. The mosaics are so well done they look like frescoes, paintings, but nope. It's mosaic. Even though you're not supposed to take pictures, i took a few. I'm good though, i didn't take it with a flash.
Afterwards we headed towards another vaporetto to take us to Murano. we liked walking around especially where there were no tourists. We got there around 5 or so, so the glassblowing factories had closed, but the shops were still open. So we shopped for about 2 hours, looking at the different pieces of jewelry, figurines, etc, all made of glass. It's quite pretty. I got a calligraphy pen and some jewelry, but i decided not to get too much as gifts because i realized that i think the bracelets janet got us cambridge girls may have been from Murano when she went to italy. Laura and Sarah really liked it too.
Also around Venice some shops had lots of handmade masks for sale, because Carnevale is held there. The masks are SOOOOOOOOOOOOO PRETTY. THAT's the kind of mask that i like, very classic. i wanted to buy one, but of course they were in the "break and die" category. But i did take a picture of one store window.
Walking around for a place to eat, we tried to eat at this kosher jewish restaurant, but it was all full because, we realized when we got there, that it was Shabbat. The place was packed with people and they were singing every once in a while. So we walked around some more and found this really nice chinese restaurant across the canal from the jewish restaurant. The food was good, it was cheap, and we had deep fried gelato for dessert. This couple at the table next to us struck up a conversation with us. They were from austraila and had been traveling around venice and italy for a few days.
That night we took an overnight train to munich, which was just a stopover on our way to Salzburg. Laura was disappointed we didn't get a couchette cabin and experience "real ghetto backpacking," even though we had nice beds in a compartment all to ourselves. It was freakin hot though, and i got the short end of the stick, having the top bed. It was so hot we decided to all just sleep in our underwear. Somehow we all fell asleep but when we awoke, it was alot cooler. We weren't in italy anymore! However, it was a lot cooler. It was raining. In Germany, and in Austria. When we got to Munich we wanted to get a postcard or something, but we just hung out at our platform eating breakfast. I had smoked salmon and cheese sandwiches, which wasn't so bad. Well i had to finish the salmon off anyway cuz we weren't around any refridgerators.
When we got to Salzburg, we had to take a local train to find our hostel, just one stop from the station, but then we had to walk up a hill to find the hostel, Haus Christine. It was by far the best hostel we stayed at. It was at this family's house, which i wouldn't mind to have when i was older (3 floors, nice big open rooms, wood floors) and it had the most awesome view of the hills. And the hills were green (well, yeah, it's been rainy). It was so beautiful, i wanted to do a Julie Andrews and do the whole "the hills are alive" bit. but the grass was muddy and i hate muddy grass. (BTW, The Sound of Music was filmed here. They have those "sound of music" tours here) You can also do Canyoning around here (along with snowboarding and skiing in the winter, oooh, i would like to do that!), but the rain had dampened our moods.
We had a room on the top floor with this one girl, Claire, from Manchester, England. She was staying in Austria for the year teaching English, i think. She had just arrived from England (an 8 hour car ride to london and a short flight from Heathrow, crazy!) so we left her to recover and sleep.
salzburg. cold and rainy. went to mozart“s birthplace and went here to stay away from the rain.
dinner - bratwursts. hee. and then we went to a cafe and had the best apple strudel ever.

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